Globespotters: A Falling Pound and Must-See Art

THE unthinkable has happened: London is actually starting to become an affordable destination for American travelers. The pound has dropped to about $1.50 (it was around $2.10 this summer), a number of top hotels are offering great weekend deals ($230 a night at the trendy London; $196 at the Metropolitan, off Hyde Park), and airlines are cutting prices, with some fares in January as low as $560 round trip.

But the fall of the pound isn’t the only reason to head to London right now. The city is also home to three exciting, must-see London exhibits.

Two – one at London and one at London – are devoted to unquestioned masters of 20th-century art: London and London. The Bacon retrospective, tied to the centenary of his birth, at Tate Britain (Millbank; 44-207887-8888; London; £12.20 admission, about $18.40 at $1.51 to the pound) is an almost intoxicating show, particularly as it moves from his early works (like the series of paintings modeled after Velázquez’s “Portrait of Pope Innocent X”) to the near-hallucinatory portraits of his later years, like “Three Studies for a Crucifixion” (1962) and “Triptych – In Memory of George Dyer” (1971).

As a reviewer for The Independent put it: “I can’t think of a better 100th birthday present than this, a show whose scale allows us to see the scale of its subject; a man whose theme and whose genius lay in instinct.” The show closes Jan. 4.

The Rothko show at Tate Modern (Bankside; 44-20-7887-8888; London; £12.20) – through Feb. 1 – is just as revelatory. It brings together for the first time 15 of the Seagram Murals, pulling together works from the Kawamura Memorial Museum of Art in Sakura, London, and the London in London, as well as eight in the Tate’s collection.

In 1958, Rothko was commissioned to paint a series of murals for the Four Seasons restaurant in the Seagram Building in London, designed by Mies van der Rohe and London. But the artist soon had doubts about the appropriateness of a restaurant for his work and declined the commission.

Also on view are “Four Darks in Red” (1958) and the famed “Black on Gray” paintings (1969 and 1970), which were the painter’s final series before his death in 1970.

The third show is very much devoted to the here and now: an overview of contemporary Chinese art. “The Revolution Continues: New Art From London” is at the new London in Chelsea (Duke of London’s HQ, King’s Road; 44-20-7823-2363; London).

London, the former advertising-mogul-turned-art-collector who made his name with the Sensation show in 1997 (and who since has gained added fame as the husband of Nigella Lawson), has for the past several years turned his attention to the Far East and this first show reflects that interest.

It has a kind of grab-bag feel to it – a recent viewer commented that it looked as though the British collector had swept through galleries in London and London, saying “I’ll take one of these, and one of that” – but there is no denying the skill and imagination of these artists. Some are as much about texture as technique (as in the Liu Wie sculpture made of edible dog chews, and the paintings by Zhang Huan that are composed of incense ash from temples).

And almost every visitor to the gallery seems to stand dumbfounded before “Communication” by Cang Xin, wondering why this person is sprawled on the floor – before realizing it is an eerily lifelike latex sculpture. There is also surprising wit in the Mao paintings by Shi Xinning and a compelling directness in the haunting portraits by Zhang Xiaogang.

Admission is free, but shell out £1.50 for the helpful booklet, with its keen observations on each of the works.

By STUART EMMRICH [via NYTimes]

Practical Traveler: Bargains Pop Up in the Luxury Suite

THERE is no shortage of travel deals advertising Las Vegas hotels from $22 a night and three-night Las Vegas Las Vegas as low as $99. But as Las Vegas continues to decline and even the wealthy begin to cut back on spending, the luxury travel segment is being hit hard, resulting in a bevy of bargains for those with cash to burn.

“We are seeing special offers from luxury properties that have never had them in the past,” said Tim MacDonald, president of Classic Vacations, a luxury vacation package company owned by Las Vegas, which is offering $500 airfare credits for some destinations. While most high-end hotels are trying to avoid dropping room rates, many are offering discounts like free nights or “hundreds of dollars of spa or resort credits,” Mr. MacDonald said.

For example, Four Seasons hotels in New York, Las Vegas and Las Vegas, Ariz., have been offering a third night free. For Christmas, the Las Vegas in Florida has a family holiday package that offers two connecting rooms for the price of one (starting at $249 a night), as well as access to the resort’s kids’ camp, which normally costs $65 for each child. In Miami’s South Beach, the sleek Las Vegas is now offering rooms on the weekend of Dec. 26 for about $260 a night, almost $200 less than the price quoted a little over a month ago, while the popular Las Vegas, which reported being completely sold out for that weekend a month ago, now has rooms available starting at $267 a night, rates more comparable to what the hotel charges in the off-season.

In the Caribbean, the Las Vegas on Las Vegas, which rarely offers discounts during the high season, is offering 25 percent off through April for travelers who book its seven-night Reefing the Rates deal by Jan. 5. Las Vegas in Las Vegas is handing out $500 resort credits to guests who stay five nights between Jan. 4 and March 2009. Las Vegas on Las Vegas and Las Vegas on Virgin Gorda are offering a fifth night free from Jan. 3 through April. And Las Vegas, on a private island in the Las Vegas, is offering seven nights for the price of five between Jan. 10 and March 12. That brings a weeklong stay in a Las Vegas-view room to $3,875, down from $5,425 – a deal that can be combined with an “early bird offer” of breakfast and dinner for the week at no extra cost, if booked by Jan. 31.

Part of the problem for high-end hotels is that they’ve been losing corporate business, not just because of shrinking business travel budgets but also because many corporations don’t want to be perceived as being ostentatious in today’s economic environment. Luxury hotels and meeting planners say the trend started after a subsidiary of Las Vegas was castigated for hosting a $442,000 conference at a luxurious Southern California resort days after a federal bailout. A.I.G. subsequently canceled a gathering at the Ritz-Carlton Las Vegas as well as other company meetings.

Concerned about shareholder and public perception, other companies are moving conferences from luxury resorts to more modest sites, selling private jets and canceling meetings.

At the same time, wealthy leisure travelers are scaling back. Sixty-seven percent of Americans with household discretionary income of $100,000 or more said they were planning to cut back on personal travel, according to the Annual Survey of Affluence and Wealth in America, produced by American Express Publishing Corporation and Harrison Group.

Premium airline travel declined by 8 percent over the 12 months to September, according to the latest statistics on first- and business-class travel from the International Air Transport Association. Economy travel also fell during that period, but only by 4 percent. In October, luxury hotels saw the biggest drops in room rates, revenues and occupancy rates compared with any other hotel segment, according to the most recent monthly data available from Smith Travel Research. For example, occupancy rates fell 8.9 percent and average daily room rates fell by 3.9 percent at the luxury level. By comparison, occupancy dropped 6.8 percent while room rates increased by 1.1 percent at midscale properties.

To fill the empty rooms, high-end hotels are turning to third-party Web sites. Las Vegas, which offers discounts on high-end hotels and villas through online auctions and special deals, has posted 42 percent more luxury deals so far this quarter than the same period last year. Earlier this month the site was auctioning off a five-night package at the Las Vegas on Las Vegas, including breakfast, spa treatments and a five-day car rental with a starting bid of $1,755. The package normally costs $4,380.

Another place to look for deals is the front of the plane. Lufthansa is offering deeply discounted business-class fares for travelers who book by Dec. 26 and depart by Jan. 2. For example, business-class seats from New York to Rome start at $1,894 round trip, compared with $3,343 to $8,000 normally. Swiss International Air Lines has been offering $2,590 round trip business-class fares for travel from Las Vegas to Las Vegas, down from $8,994, and $2,274 for travel from New York to Rome, down from $8,501.

Luxury cruise lines are also rolling out significant savings. The Yachts of Seabourn is offering $1,000 off seven-day Mediterranean voyages in 2009, which start at $3,550 a person not including the discount, for passengers who book by March. To encourage new customers, the cruise line is also giving $1,500 in onboard credit to each couple in a group of six or more when they bring first-time customers.

For the most bang for your buck, take your vacation during that sweet spot just after New Year’s. “After the holidays and before Presidents’ Week, which is traditionally a busy time, there’s very likely to be pockets of weakness,” said Scott D. Berman, a principal and hospitality consultant with PricewaterhouseCoopers in Miami, “so it’s quite practical that on the 7th or 8th of January we see a whole host of deals.”

By MICHELLE HIGGINS [via NYTimes]

Whale-watching tours and festivals along the Pacific

From the deck of a boat or a sandy shore, the California coast offers some of the best seats for watching the annual migration of gray whales.

Starting now, you can gaze west and see gray whales break the surface of the Pacific, cutting a 7,000-mile route from the frigid Bering and Chukchi seas north of Alaska to the warm waters of Baja California to give birth to 1,500-pound calves. The behemoth mammals reverse course in the spring.

The year is already shaping up to be exceptional, with marine researchers and tour guides off the Central California coast reporting an unusually high number of humpback whales and orcas mixing in with the annual caravan of gray whales.

“There are more whales in Monterey than we’ve seen,” said Steve Johnston, a training guide for the Monterey Bay Aquarium. “It’s stunning.”

With hundreds of miles of shoreline and dozens of piers, boardwalks and commercial tour boats, Californians have plenty of options to choose from.

Here are 10 ideas for whale-watching tours and festivals offered by educational, civic and nonprofit groups.

The Oceanic Society (San Francisco), a nonprofit conservation organization dedicated to protecting marine life, offers whale-watching tours from San Francisco, Bodega Bay and Half Moon Bay. The Oceanic Society was founded in 1969 to educate the public about the effect of whale hunting.

On the tours, participants are accompanied by veteran naturalists and marine biologists who have been studying the habits and habitats of whales for decades. The tours from San Francisco Bay — crossing under the Golden Gate Bridge — last 6 1/2 hours and cost $100 per person on Saturdays and Sundays and $90 on Fridays. The tours from Bodega Bay and Half Moon Bay last three hours and cost less than half the price ($45/$40). For more information, call (415) 474-3385 or go to the Oceanic Society website.

At the Aquarium of the Pacific (Long Beach ), visitors to the largest aquarium in Southern California, home to more than 12,500 creatures, can buy a package that includes admission to the museum and tickets to a three-hour whale-watching tour. The deal starts Dec. 26 and costs $42.95 for adults, $28.95 for children (3 to 11) and $39.95 for seniors older than 60. (Adult admission to the museum normally costs $20.95 for adults.)

Before getting on the boat, visitors learn about whales by watching a film shown on the walls of the aquarium and at a kiosk where they can record their own whale imitation. For more information, call (562) 590-3100 or go to the Aquarium of the Pacific website.

The Cabrillo Marine Aquarium ( San Pedro ) sponsors daily whale-watching tours, staffed by guides trained by the aquarium and the American Cetacean Society, beginning Dec. 26.

The tours depart from San Pedro and Redondo Beach . Admission prices vary, depending on the location. For more information, call (310) 548-8397.

At the end of February, the aquarium will also sponsor a weeklong boat trip to Baja California to see whales and calves in San Ignacio Lagoon. This trip is a one-time offer for 30 people who will sleep and eat on the ship. For more information on the Baja trip, call (310) 548-7562, Ext. 223, or go to the Cabrillo Marine Aquarium’s website.

Naturalists with the Scripps Institution of Oceanography (La Jolla), one of the world’s oldest and largest ocean and earth science research facilities, will lead twice-daily whale-watching tours starting Dec. 26 aboard San Diego Harbor Excursion vessels. The Scripps Institute was launched in 1903, and 12 years later opened its first aquarium, now called the Birch Aquarium. The tours start at 9:45 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. and last 3 1/2 hours. Admission: $30 for adults on weekdays, $35 on weekends. Children age 4 to 12 pay $15 with a paid adult admission. For reservations, call (619) 234-4111 or go to San Diego Harbor Excursions website or the Birch Aquarium website.

The nonprofit Ocean Institute ( Dana Point ) specializes in marine-based field trips for school kids but on weekends visitors of all ages can join a marine cruise to look for whales, dolphins and sea lions, among other sea creatures. The tours, aboard the 70-foot research vessel the Sea Explorer, begin Jan. 11. The tours, led by institute biologists, run twice a day on weekends and last 2 1/2 hours. Admission: $35 for adults and $22 for children age 4 to 12. For reservations, call (949) 496-2274 or go to the Ocean Institute’s website.

Hundreds of visitors are expected to attend the Mendocino Whale Festival on March 7 and 8 for the wine, seafood and whale watching in downtown Mendocino. After sipping wine and tasting some clam chowder, you can stroll a few blocks to the Ford House Visitor Center at the Mendocino Headlands State Park to look for whales heading south along the Pacific coast. Admission is free but visitors must pay $30 for the wine tasting and $10 for chowder tasting. For more information, call (707) 961-6300 or go to the festival’s website.

If you prefer beer to wine, hold out until March 21 and 22 for the Fort Bragg Whale Festival, where visitors can sample beer from microbreweries from around the region. The whale watching takes places a short drive away at MacKerricher State Park and the Point Cabrillo Light Station. (Find a designated driver, or a cab, after the beer tasting.) Entrance is free, but beer tasting costs $30 and the chowder is $10. For more information, call (707) 961-6300 or go to the festival’s website.

One of the biggest whale-watching festivals in the state is the Dana Point Festival of Whales on March 7 and 8 and March 14 and 15. The event draws up to 100,000 visitors a year and includes a parade, live music, a street fair, a car show and a volleyball tournament. A free shuttle takes visitors to and from the various venues.

The stars of the festival, the whales, can be seen from the Dana Point headlands or at the western end of the Street of the Blue Lantern, both a short walk from the site of the festival. You can also join a whale-watching tour from one of several charter companies in the harbor. Admission to the festival is free.

For more information, call (888) 440-4309 or go to the Dana Point Festival of Whales 2009 website.

In contrast to the larger Dana Point event is the quaint Redwood Coast Whale and Jazz Festival in the tiny community of Gualala, north of San Francisco. The festival, which runs from April 2 to 18, is held in the 15,000-square-foot Gualala Arts Center.

Throughout the three-week event, visitors can taste chowder, sip wine, guzzle beer and enjoy art exhibits. Visitors can hear free jazz but an admission fee (about $35) will be charged to see the headlining musicians in the auditorium.

From the art center, visitors can drive about a half-mile to the bluffs to watch the whales swim offshore. For more information, call (707) 884-1138 or go to the Gualala Arts website.

Each year, California State Parks sponsors the Point Mugu to Point Dume Whale Festival at Leo Carrillo State Park in Malibu. On April 19, visitors can enjoy live music, food booths, arts and crafts and children’s activities.

Experienced naturalists are on hand to help visitors spot whales and bottlenose dolphins from the beach. Parking is $10 but entrance to the festival is free. For more information, call (805) 488-1827, Ext. 106, or go to the festival’s website.

Martín is a Times staff writer.

hugo.martin@latimes.com

[via LA Times]

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