There’s no sugarcoating it: This place is in the Tenderloin. And not the swept and sanitized slum from “Nash Bridges” reruns, with literate graffiti and neatly pressed winos. This is the all-too-real thing. The good news is this place doesn’t suffer so much from being in a bad neighborhood as it benefits from being in a “bad boy” neighborhood: Because of the nearby venues (Great American Music Hall, the Warfield, Bill Graham Civic Auditorium) – as well as a carefully cultivated reputation – the Phoenix Hotel has become a hot spot for rock ‘n’ rollers and the celebrities who travel in similar orbits. The vibe is young, hip, green, retro, Buddhist and MTV-ish – so don’t make the mistake of coming here for a good night’s sleep.

Comfort zone

The rooms are tropical bungalow decor – casual and functional, with original art and basic amenities. No zillion-thread-count sheets; remember what I said about sleep?

Bath and beyond

Not sure what the bathroom in a tropical bungalow is supposed to look like, but this one was a blend of contemporary and original ’50s, from the fixtures to the paint to the tile work. Toiletries are standard Lather brand. The postcards mounted on the back of the door show the hotel in the Eisenhower days. Brilliant.

Geared up

Standard rooms have voice mail, dataport, free Wi-Fi service, cable TV, a hair dryer and, in case you forget the motor lodge vibe, a ceiling fan. In the deluxe king rooms and suites (about $10-$20 more), tack on a refrigerator, a microwave and a coffeemaker.

Grounds for approval

The framework is a ’50s motor lodge that’s been gussied up to what hip hotelier Joie de Vivre calls an “artistic urban oasis,” including a courtyard with sculptures, statues of the Buddha, bamboo and a functional swimming pool that is a legitimate piece of art. If the framework is Eisenhower, the Bambuddha Restaurant and Lounge are strictly Obama. On a recent Saturday night, the place was wall-to-wall club hoppers, hipsters and bachelorette parties by 9 p.m., including rowdy club overflow spilling into the courtyard. Weeknights are probably more quiet, but bring earplugs just in case.

In the vicinity

What part of “Tenderloin” wasn’t clear? If you have to leave the compound, there are a few hip hangouts (and the aforementioned music venues) within a few dodgy blocks – ask the Tower Records refugee desk clerk – as well as the Mitchell Brothers O’Farrell Theatre and its ample supply of, um, exotic dancers. (Where did you think rockers and celebs go after gigs?)

Good to know

On-site parking is free and (relatively) secure, although it’s easy to buy peace of mind for the cost of cab fare. Also, the lounge only serves cocktails and dinner Wednesday through Saturday. And they seem to take the green thing pretty seriously – even the disposable plastic cups are compostable – which seems more appropriate here than in most hotels, where it’s probably just a marketing ploy.

Highs and lows

Whether you love it or hate it will depend on what you want. Elegant luxury and pampering? Don’t bother. A lively, fun and hip hangout with built-in dance club and potential star spotting? Grab a corner of the courtyard and settle in.

Vitals: 601 Eddy St., San Francisco; (415) 776-1380, (800) 248-9466 for reservations; www.jdvhotels.com/hotels/phoenix; 44 rooms; non-smoking. $139-$149 per night (not including taxes and fees), and comes with Continental breakfast. Two rooms are wheelchair accessible, one single and one double.

- Spud Hilton, shilton@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G – 49 of the San Francisco Chronicle

By shilton@sfchronicle.com ()[via SFGate]

The holiday season is upon us. If this realization makes you feel stressed and overwhelmed, counter it with something meaningful and something mirthful: Head over to Geary Street, along and near Union Square. Visit cats and dogs in need of loving homes, take a whirl on the ice, enjoy a hofbrau meal or sip a cappuccino at an outdoor cafe, while gazing at a grand Christmas tree.

1. The San Francisco SPCA Holiday Windows at Macy’s

170 O’Farrell and Stockton streets (at Geary Street): Inside the Macy’s windows on this corner, homeless kittens, cats, puppies and dogs in need of loving homes romp, play and nap. If you’re considering adoption, talk to the SPCA representatives here. Each adoptable animal is medically and behaviorally screened, vaccinated and spayed or neutered. They go home with a 30-day gift of pet health insurance, a free dog or cat advice DVD and more. Through Jan. 1. www.sfspca.org.

2. Safeway Holiday Ice Rink

Union Square: Whether you aspire to become the next Shizuka Arakawa or haven’t skated before, at this ice rink it doesn’t matter. Put on a pair of skates, hold on to the rink’s railings, wobble, fall down or gracefully glide along the ice. $4 for children 8 and younger and adults older than 55; $8 adults (50 cents more per person after 6 p.m. Friday). 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 10 a.m.-11:30 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Skates $4 each and hockey skates $5 each. Through Jan. 4. (415) 781-2688. www.unionsquareicerink.com.

3. Emporio Rulli il Caffè at Union Square

Stockton and Post streets: If skating isn’t your thing, or you’d like to take a break afterward, pop into this lively Italian cafe adjacent to the ice rink. Order up a prosciutto panini sandwich, a caprese salad, a glass of Italian wine or a beer, a scoop of house-made gelati, a slice of an Italian cream cake or a house-roasted specialty coffee. Then grab a seat at a table outside, which affords views of skaters, backdropped by a soon to be lit 80-foot Christmas tree. (415) 433-1122. www.rulli.com.

4. See’s Candies

350 Powell St. (at Geary): Whether it’s milk chocolate coins wrapped in gold foil for Hanukkah; a Christmas tree-shaped box filled with butterscotch, chocolate, cafe latte and vanilla lollipops; egg nog truffles; or classic nuts and chews, entering this old-fashioned candy store, with its familiar black-and-white decor, is a holiday tradition for many in the Bay Area. (415) 434-2771. www.sees.com.

5. Lefty O’Doul’s

333 Geary St.: For generous portions of American comfort food, along with a glimpse back to 1950s San Francisco, stop in for a traditional breakfast or a hofbrau-style lunch or dinner with choices such as hand-carved meats. Named after San Francisco native and baseball great Francis “Lefty” O’Doul, who played for the New York Giants and worked as a coach and manager for the San Francisco Seals, the spot holds lots of baseball memorabilia. (415) 982-8900. www.leftyodouls.biz.

6. American Conservatory Theater

415 Geary St.: Remind yourself of the true significance of the holiday season with the American Conservatory Theater’s endearing production of Charles Dickens’ poignant tale “A Christmas Carol,” playing next Thursday through Dec. 27. Tickets: $14-$102. (415) 749-2228. www.act-sf.org.

PARKING

The Union Square Garage, 333 Post St., between Powell and Stockton streets. Rates range from $5.50 for up to two hours to a maximum of $31. Lost ticket: $31. Open 24 hours, seven days a week. (415) 397-0631.

GETTING THERE

BART: From the Powell Street Station, take the Ellis/Stockton Street exit to Stockton Street and walk one block up to Geary Street. By car: From the Bay Bridge, take the Fremont Street exit. Turn left onto Howard Street and turn right onto Third Street. Cross Market Street and turn left onto Geary Street.

GOOD TO KNOW

Join Santa Claus at the Macy’s Tree Lighting ceremony at 6:30 p.m. Friday. The event happens from 6 to 7 p.m. and will feature performances by the San Francisco Boys Chorus and cast members from the theatrical production “Wicked.” After the ceremony, the Denton Brothers will perform traditional Christmas songs at Holiday Lane, on Level 6 inside Macy’s. The tree also acts as a fundraiser. Each $5 donation sponsors a lightbulb on the tree, with all proceeds benefiting the UCSF Children’s Hospital. Purchase through Dec. 24 by calling (415) 353-4172 or donating online at www.ucsfhealth.org/tree.

- Stephanie Wright Hession, 96Hours@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G – 48 of the San Francisco Chronicle

By 96Hours@sfchronicle.com (Stephanie Wright Hession)[via SFGate]

It’s as wide as a river and occasionally has behaved like one, rising up several times in the past to flood surrounding towns. For the moment, a calmer Corte Madera Creek flows beside a multiuse path wide enough for bicyclists, strollers and joggers to peacefully coexist.

The scenic creek is home to many shorebirds. Following the creek from Greenbrae into Ross takes you on a hike of about 2 miles each way. In Ross, you can stop for lunch in Ross Common and explore the Marin Art and Garden Center.

What you’ll find: Pick up the multiuse path across from Marin General Hospital in Greenbrae, at Bon Air Road and South Eliseo Drive. The view of Mount Tamalpais is spectacular. You will see herons and egrets fishing in this wide stretch of creek, as well as several kinds of ducks. After a short distance, you will see a small wooden bridge to the right, which will take you on a worthwhile detour to Creekside Park to view the salt marsh, home to the endangered California clapper rail. The park also has a restroom and children’s playground.

Continuing along the creek, you will find benches to take a break and a somewhat dilapidated par course with exercises. Alas, the creek is then funneled into an open culvert – still visible, but no longer beautiful. A little farther on, a wooden walkway leads across the creek, where the path continues on the other side. Cross College Avenue and continue on to the College of Marin.

Here it is easy to lose the path, but just keep the culverted creek in sight to the right. The path, now significantly narrower, soon approaches Frederick Allen Park in Ross.

Ross: Though the creek continues, the public path ends at Lagunitas Road. At Lagunitas, turn left a few feet toward Ross Common. Then turn left again. Here, at Ross Common, you will find a picturesque miniature downtown with several restaurants, cafes, shops and a post office where locals gather. Pick up lunch supplies at the Ross Grocery, which has been owned by the same family since World War II, and enjoy lunch at the park directly across from the Common.

For a different scene, turn right on Lagunitas, which leads to the Marin Garden and Art Center (30 Sir Francis Drake Blvd.). Explore spectacular gardens and rolling lawns and see heritage trees, a medicinal herb garden, a native plant garden and butterfly habitat. The center offers classes and special events for horticultural enthusiasts, an art gallery and a theater. It is also a prized venue for weddings.

Getting there

By car, take the Sir Francis Drake exit off Highway 101 and continue on Sir Francis Drake to Bon Air Road. Turn left to South Eliseo Drive.

By bus, take Golden Gate Transit’s No. 29 line to Marin General Hospital. Check goldengatetransit.org for schedules. Another option is Marin Transit’s No. 221 Twin Cities shuttle. Schedule is at links.sfgate.com/ZFLV. Both buses also stop at Larkspur Landing, allowing connections to a San Francisco ferry.

Urban Outings are presented by Greenbelt Alliance, the Bay Area’s advocate for open spaces and vibrant places, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. To suggest an Urban Outing, contact Gail Todd, tour leader for S.F. City Guides and author of “Lunchtime Walks in Downtown San Francisco.” For more Urban Outings as well as Greenbelt Outings, visit www.greenbelt.org/outings.

- Gail Todd, 96Hours@sfchronicle.com

This article appeared on page G – 45 of the San Francisco Chronicle

By 96Hours@sfchronicle.com (Gail Todd)[via SFGate]